There is nothing quite like the excitement of finding that very first "treasure" in the nesting box. For a first-time chicken keeper, it feels like a graduation ceremony for your girls. But before that first egg arrives, your pullets (young female chickens) will give you several "tells" that the big day is approaching.

Spot the signs and prepare your coop for the "Point of Lay."

When Will It Happen?

Most chickens begin laying between 18 and 24 weeks of age. However, this varies by breed:

• High-Production Hybrids (Sex Links): Often start early, around 16–18 weeks.
  
  

• Heritage Breeds (Orpingtons, Barred Rocks): May take 24–28 weeks.
  
  

• The Winter Factor: If your pullets hit "laying age" in December, the lack of daylight might delay their first egg until the days begin to lengthen in late winter.
  
  

Signs Your Hen is Ready to Lay

Your girls will undergo a physical and behavioral transformation about two weeks before the first egg:

1. The Comb & Wattles Turn Bright Red: As hormones surge, their head gear will change from pale pink to a deep, vibrant red. It may also look "swollen" or waxy.
   
   

2. The "Squat" Test: This is the most reliable sign. When you go to pet your hen, she will stop, drop her chest toward the ground, and spread her wings slightly. This is a submissive reflex in preparation for a rooster (or you!).
   
   

3. Nesting Behavior: You’ll see her "window shopping" for nesting boxes. she might kick around the straw or pine shavings, testing the comfort of different spots.
   
   

4. The Egg Song: Some hens get very vocal. You’ll hear a distinct buck-buck-buck-bada-gawk!—this is her announcing to the world that something big is happening.
   
   

What the First Egg Looks Like

Don't expect a "Jumbo Grade A" egg on day one.

• The "Pullet Egg": The first few eggs are often tiny (sometimes called "fairy eggs" or "fart eggs"). They are perfectly edible and often have a very high yolk-to-white ratio!
  
  

• Oddities: It’s common to see shells with extra calcium bumps, double yolks, or even the occasional "rubber egg" (an egg with a membrane but no shell) as the hen’s internal machinery calibrates.
  
  

Setting Them Up for Success

The transition to laying is physically taxing. Here is how to support them:

• Switch to Layer Feed: Move from "Grower" crumbles to "Layer" pellets/mash. Layer feed contains the extra calcium (usually 3–4%) required to build strong shells.
  
  

• Offer Supplemental Calcium: Keep a separate dish of oyster shell or crushed eggshells. Hens are smart; they will only eat it when they feel their body needs it.
  
  

• Encourage the Right Spot: Place a ceramic egg or even a golf ball in the nesting box. This teaches the pullets that "This is where the eggs go," preventing them from laying in the dirt or under a bush.
  
  

Prevent "Egg Eating" Before It Starts

Sometimes, a curious young hen will accidentally break her first egg and realize it tastes delicious. This can lead to a "habitual egg eater"—a nightmare for any keeper.

The best defense is enrichment. If your hens are bored, they are more likely to peck at things they shouldn't (like eggs).

Our Four Legs or Wings Peck Toys are the perfect distraction for pullets entering their laying phase. By giving them a productive way to use their pecking instinct, you keep their focus on the toys and treats, and away from their new, precious eggs.

If you’re a chicken keeper, you aren’t just raising birds—you’re managing a high-end fertilizer factory! Chicken manure is often called "Black Gold" by gardeners because it is one of the most nutrient-dense fertilizers on the planet.

However, using it straight from the coop is a recipe for disaster. Here is everything you need to know about turning your flock's "deposits" into the secret weapon for your garden.

Why You Can’t Use it "Raw"

Fresh chicken poop is considered "hot." This means it is so high in nitrogen and ammonia that it will physically burn the roots and leaves of your plants, potentially killing them overnight. It also contains raw pathogens like Salmonella or E. coli.

To make it safe, you must compost it first. This stabilizes the nitrogen and uses heat to kill off harmful bacteria and weed seeds.

How to Compost Chicken Poop: Step-by-Step

1. The Magic Ratio (Browns vs. Greens)

Composting is all about balance.

• The Greens (Nitrogen): This is your chicken manure and any kitchen scraps.
  
  

• The Browns (Carbon): This is the bedding from your coop (straw, pine shavings, or dried leaves).
  
  

• The Goal: Aim for roughly 2 parts "Brown" to 1 part "Green." If you use the deep litter method in your coop, you usually have a perfect mix ready to go the moment you shovel it out!
  
  

2. Pile it Up

Create a pile at least 3x3x3 feet. This size is crucial because it allows the center to get hot enough.

3. Monitor Heat & Moisture

• Temperature: For safety, your pile needs to reach 55°C to 70°C (130°F–160°F) for at least three days to kill pathogens.
  
  

• Moisture: It should feel like a wrung-out sponge. If it’s too dry, the microbes stop working; too wet, and it will start to smell like a swamp.
  
  

4. Let it Age (The Patience Phase)

• Hot Composting: If you turn the pile weekly, it can be ready in 3–4 months.
  
  

• Cold/Lazy Composting: If you just leave it in a heap, wait at least 6–12 months before putting it on your vegetables.
  
  

What Plants Love It the Most?

Because chicken manure is high in Nitrogen (for leaves), Phosphorus (for roots/fruit), and Potassium (for overall health), it is a "complete" fertilizer.

A Note for Root Crops: Be careful with carrots and beets. Too much nitrogen can cause them to grow beautiful "hair" and tops, but forked or stunted roots.

Keeping the "Factory" Running

To get the best fertilizer, your chickens need to be healthy and active. A bird that is moving and foraging produces better quality waste!

Consider letting your chickens free range, using chicken fencing.

Use a "tractor" coop with wheels that can be moved around your garden. Use can add wheels and handles to Omlet Eglu coops.

Add an extension to your modular Omlet Eglu coop run to give your chickens more room, or consider a larger walk-in run to begin with.

Have you unfortunately noticed that your chickens are pulling feathers? 

From time to time you may end up with a bad egg, errr, chicken, that pecks your other birds. This can be caused by boredom, lack of proper nutrition, or sometimes for no reason at all. Once you've established why they are doing it and fixed any related issues, you must stop the physical act of pecking. Pinless peepers are a harmless solution that can be used short or long term with no detrimental effects.

Peepers can be installed with or without pliers. The pliers make the task easier especially when working on multiple birds.

Pinless peepers are constructed of virgin polypropylene plastic material to insure long life and durability of the unit. Stiff construction also ensures that these Pinless Peepers will not break or become loose as older models once did.

Pick from 10 great colours or get a mix! Sold in 12 packs with or without pliers. Save 10% on pinless peepers with discount code PEEPER10 at checkout.

Click here to get your Pinless Peepers

How to install Pinless Peepers:

1. Drop the Pinless Peepers into a bowl of hot water. Let them sit for a couple of minutes to soften the plastic
2. Get a partner to hold the chicken on their lap while keeping the head from moving.
3. With the chicken happily immobilized, pry the plastic prongs apart and insert one into each nostril of the bird. Once you release the peeper, it will hold snugly on the chicken's beak.
4. Using our special installation pliers makes the job easier when dealing with multiple birds but if you only have a few you might be able to do without.

Once installed, your bird may try to pull it off or act a little strange. This is normal and within a short time they will be back to their old selves, without the pecking!

Living in Canada, we don't just "keep" chickens; we manage their survival through some of the most drastic temperature swings on the planet. From the humid heatwaves of Southern Ontario to the -30°C windchills of the Prairies, your coop has a massive job to do.

Many people assume wood is the natural insulator and plastic is cold, but these are myths easily busted by Omlet Egle engineering and design. Here is why the high-grade plastic engineering of an Omlet Eglu coop is actually the warmest seat in the yard.

The Thermos Effect: Twin-Wall Insulation

Traditional wooden coops are usually made of a single layer of timber (often less than half an inch thick). Wood is porous; it absorbs moisture, and once wood is damp, it becomes a conductor for the cold rather than a barrier against it.

The Eglu works like a high-end thermos or a double-glazed window. It utilizes twin-wall insulation:

• The Air Gap: There is a pocket of air trapped between the inner and outer plastic walls.

• The Thermal Barrier: This air pocket acts as a massive buffer, making it incredibly difficult for the external freezing temperatures to penetrate the interior.

• Heat Retention: Your hens are their own little heaters (their body temperature is roughly 41°C). In a twin-walled coop, that heat stays trapped inside with them instead of escaping through thin wooden slats.

Draft-Free Ventilation (The Frostbite Secret)

The biggest threat to a Canadian chicken isn't actually the cold—it’s moisture. When hens breathe and poop at night, they release humidity. In a wooden coop with poor airflow, that moisture settles on their combs and wattles, freezes, and causes frostbite.

• Engineering vs. Luck: Omlet Eglu coops are designed with "blackout" ventilation. This means air is constantly circulating to pull moisture out, but the vents are positioned so that no direct icy drafts hit your birds while they sleep.

• Dry is Warm: Because plastic doesn't absorb snowmelt or rain, the interior stays bone-dry. A dry hen is a warm hen.

Summer Performance

The "Canadian Factor" also includes our scorching summers. That same twin-wall insulation that keeps the heat in during January keeps the sun’s radiant heat out during July. While a wooden coop can turn into a literal oven under the midday sun, the Eglu stays remarkably stable and shaded.

Winter Tip: While the Omlet Eglu coop is a powerhouse on its own, for those extreme -40°C nights, we recommend our Extreme Temperature Blankets. They fit the coop like a tailored parka, adding a third layer of protection for ultimate peace of mind.

Give your flock a home built for the North.

Drop in Egg Production

When you buy chickens they will often be at the point of lay. This means that the chickens will start to lay soon. How long this takes depends on the time of year and the individual chicken. It can be anywhere between 4 and 6 weeks before they start to lay (longer in winter when there is less daylight).

Once they are mature enough to lay, egg production should be regular and typical for the breed of chicken. If they do stop or slow down gg production, the reasons could be:

Sickness or Injury: A change in the chicken's health condition. Check that the chicken seems healthy. Look for an impacted crop, mites or other parasites, signs of hen-pecking, general lethargy etc.

Annual Moult: When your chickens start their annual moult of feathers their egg production will drop and most likely stop. This is because the chickens are reserving their energy to produce new feathers

Dehydration: Egg production is the first thing affected by dehydration. Make sure your birds have plentiful clean water.

Reduced Daylight in Winter: Chickens need 14 to 16 hours of light per day in order to lay. This means that in the winter, shorter days will typically result in few eggs.

Nutrient Deficiency: Mature birds should be feed for laying chickens because it has the right proportion of ntrints required for egg production. "Grower" feed is for chicks and poults, and should be switched to "Layer" feed when a chicken starts laying. Chickens cannot lay properly if only fed kitchen scraps. Treats should only account for 10% of their diet. 

Broodiness: When a hen gets broody, she determines that it is time to stop laying and start sitting on a clutch of eggs until they hatch. This can happen regardless of whether there is a rooster in the flock or the eggs are fertilized. To break the broodiness, you must get the hen off the eggs and keep her out of the nest boxes.

Fright or Stress: If your birds have had a fright, such as predators entering the coops, this can result in no eggs for a while.

Hide & Seek: If you are letting your chickens roam about in the garden they may have made a nest under a bush or in a corner somewhere. Follow your chicken discreetly to find the nest. This could also be a sign that the nest boxes are not inviting anymore: remove dirty bedding and add some fluffy new straw or shavings.

We’ve all been there. You’re at the local farm supply store or browsing online, and you see a charming, cedar-colored wooden coop for half the price of a professional-grade plastic model. It looks like a dollhouse; it smells like fresh timber. You think, “This is a steal.”

But after one Canadian winter, that "steal" starts to feel a lot more like a liability.

These are the top 6 reasons to choose plastic over wood for your coop:

1) Hidden cost of wood maintenance

Wood is a living, breathing material. To keep it from rotting in our humidity and snow, you have to treat it every single year. Between the cost of pet-safe wood stains, weatherproofing sealants, and the hours of labor spent painting, your "cheap" coop starts demanding an annual subscription fee.

2) End the war on mites and other parasites

If you get pests like mites in your coop, they can be quite a challenge to get rid off and it may take weeks of regular cleaning and spraying with solutions to control. In wooden coops, mites can find spots to hide away from the spraying and cleaning you're doing to get rid of them. Once you think you have the problem dealt with, they reappear and you have to start again. Mites will hide in corners where sheets of wood meet as well as in knots and grain found in wood and plywood.

Unlike wood, plastic is non-porous so there's nowhere for mites to hide. All of the components that make up our plastic coops come apart for easy cleaning and disinfecting. Mites don't stand a chance and the problem is quickly dealt with.

3) Cleaning in 5 Minutes, Not 5 Hours

With a traditional wooden chicken coop, the dreaded cleaning routine involves a metal scraper, a face mask, and hours of scrubbing. By the time you’re done, the wood is still damp, which creates a breeding ground for mould.

Because Omlet Eglu coops are made from high-grade, smooth-surface plastic, the waste simply doesn't "bond" to the material the way it does to plywood or pine. Omlet Eglu coops are pressure washer friendly, easy to wipe clean and dry almost instantly.

Even better, the dirtiest components of the Omlet Eglu coops, like the droppings tray and nesting bars, slide out easily to dump out and wash.

4) Outstanding Durability

Most "entry-level" wooden coops have a lifespan of 3 to 5 years before they become unsalvageable. Wood expands in the damp and shrinks in the heat. Within 12 months, you’ll likely notice doors that no longer latch securely and gaps in the siding that let in freezing drafts.

When you do the math, buying three wooden coops over a decade costs significantly more than investing in one Omlet Eglu Coop that is built to last. It’s UV-stabilized and won't degrade in the sun or crack in the frost. The Omlet Eglu Cube and Omlet Eglu Pro come with 10-year warranties. You'll never find that on a wooden coop.

5) Superior Predator Protection

As wooden coops age, the wood softens. A hungry predator can literally chew through a corner of a cedar coop to create an opening. The high-density, twin-walled polyethylene used in our coops is incredibly tough. It offers no "purchase" for teeth and is impact-resistant, meaning even the most determined visitor eventually gives up and moves on.

All Omlet Eglu coops come with raccoon-proof locking mechanisms and a heavy-duty, integrated mesh floor skirt that sits flat on the ground.

Omlet chicken runs are made from heavy-duty steel weld-mesh, not chicken wire. It is coated for weather resistance and thick enough to withstand the brute force of a large dog or a persistent predator. It doesn't sag, it doesn't rust through, and it doesn't give way.

6) Proven Insulation for Canadian weather: 

Traditional wooden coops are usually made of a single layer of timber (often less than half an inch thick). Wood is porous; it absorbs moisture, and once wood is damp, it becomes a conductor for the cold rather than a barrier against it.

The Omlet Eglu coop works like a high-end thermos or a double-glazed window. It utilizes twin-wall insulation: there is a pocket of air trapped between the inner and outer plastic walls. This air pocket acts as a massive buffer, making it incredibly difficult for the external temperatures to penetrate the interior. This translates to warm in the winter and cool in the summer.

The high-grade plastic engineering of an Omlet Eglu coop also incorporates draft-free ventilation. The biggest threat to a Canadian chicken isn't actually the cold—it’s moisture. Because plastic doesn't absorb snowmelt or rain, the interior stays bone-dry. A dry hen is a warm hen.

If you’ve spent any time in backyard chicken forums, you may have read the horror stories. A wooden door warped just enough for a raccoon to reach a paw through, or a fox chewed through thin chicken wire in under three minutes.

We're here to assure you that you can have piece of mind when it comes to your chickens. Here is how the engineering of a plastic Omlet Eglu coop outperforms traditional wood when it comes to predators.

1. The Anti-Tunnel Mesh Skirt
Most predators don't try to go over a fence; they go under. Standard coops require you to dig a trench and bury hardware cloth—a back-breaking weekend project.

The Solution: Omlet runs come with a heavy-duty, integrated mesh floor skirt that sits flat on the ground. When a fox tries to dig at the edge of the run, they hit the mesh and can't get under. It’s a simple, biological deterrent that works every time.

2. Raccoon-Proof Locking Mechanisms
Raccoons are notoriously clever with simple sliding bolts and wooden toggles. The Eglu features a twist-and-lift locking system and recessed handles that are physically impossible for a predator to manipulate. 

3. Steel Weld-Mesh (Not Chicken Wire)
"Chicken wire" is actually designed to keep chickens in, not to keep predators out. It is thin, brittle, and easily snipped by a pair of wire cutters—or a predator's teeth.

The Difference: Our runs are made from heavy-duty steel weld-mesh. It is coated for weather resistance and thick enough to withstand the brute force of a large dog or a persistent predator. It doesn't sag, it doesn't rust through, and it doesn't give way.

4. The "No-Chew" Factor
As wooden coops age, the wood softens. A hungry predator can literally chew through a corner of a cedar coop to create an opening. The high-density, twin-walled polyethylene used in our coops is incredibly tough. It offers no "purchase" for teeth and is impact-resistant, meaning even the most determined visitor eventually gives up and moves on.

Extreme Predator Protection!

Most people think foxes and raccoons when it comes to chicken predators. But Omlet coops have been tested to the extreme by bears and cougars. These are seriously the most predator-resistant coops on the market.

https://blog.omlet.co.uk/2022/07/25/eglu-cube-chicken-coops-are-strong/

Easter is just around the corner, and children will be dying and decorating eggs for their baskets. But have you ever dreamed of opening your nesting box to find a range of beautifully coloured eggs right from your chickens? 

The "Rainbow Egg Basket" is the ultimate goal for many backyard chicken keepers.

While many exotic breeds are only sold as day-old chicks, there are several stunning, colorful egg-layers available in Canada as Ready-to-Lay (RTL) pullets. Here are the best breeds that combine the backyard benefits of moderate to high egg production, friendly vibes, and a splash of colour.

1. Azure Blues (The Sky-Blue Specialists)

Azure Blues are a modern hybrid designed for the backyard enthusiast who wants color without sacrificing quantity. They are built for Canadian winters and high efficiency.

• Egg Color: Brilliant, clear sky-blue.

• Production: High (~290+ eggs per year).

• Temperament: Robust, active, and very friendly.

• Pro Tip: Because of their Leghorn genetics, they are excellent foragers and very feed-efficient.

2. Olive Eggers (The "Mossy Green" Layers)

A favorite at Canadian hatcheries, these are usually a cross between a blue-egg layer (like an Ameraucana) and a dark-brown layer (like a Marans).

• Egg Color: Shades ranging from spearmint to deep army green or moss.

• Production: Good (~240–260 eggs per year).

• Temperament: Generally curious and calm.

• Why they're great for Canada: They are sturdy birds that inherit the cold-hardiness of their parent breeds.

3. Easter Eggers (The Surprise Layers)

A versatile staple for Canadian flocks, these "mutts" of the poultry world are crosses between blue-egg genes and any other breed, meaning every bird is a unique surprise.

• Egg Color: A literal lottery! Each bird lays one specific color: sky blue, seafoam green, or even light pink. 
• Production: Great (~250 eggs per year). 
• Temperament: Exceptionally friendly and sweet-natured; perfect for families with kids. 
• Why they're great for Canada: They often have small pea combs and wattles, which makes them highly resistant to frostbite during harsh Canadian winters

4. Noirans (The "Chocolate" Eggers)

If you want a dark, rich contrast to your blues and greens, you want a Noiran. This hybrid Marans-type bird is bred specifically to give you the dark egg color without the lower production typical of some heritage Marans.

• Egg Color: Deep, dark "chocolate" brown.

• Production: Reliable (~220–250 eggs per year).

• Temperament: Calm, quiet, and great for suburban backyards.

Keeping chickens is a bylaw issue that is governed at the municipal level. Luckily, in the last decade many Canadian cities have embraced or at least examined the benefits or urban chicken keeping.

The map for backyard chickens in Canada is a bit of a patchwork. While the movement for urban eggs has grown, some major cities have hit the "pause" button due to concerns like avian flu.

If you’re looking to join the ranks of urban chicken keepers this year, here is the current (2026) status of some major Canadian hubs:

The "Yes" Cities (With Rules)

These cities have established bylaws allowing backyard hens, typically requiring a permit and a limit on the number of birds (usually 4–6).

• Vancouver, BC: Still a leader in urban poultry. Residents can keep up to 4 hens (no roosters) but must register them with the city.

• Edmonton, AB: A very supportive city for urban hens. They require a specific "Urban Hen Keeping Licence" and a completed training course.

• Calgary, AB: Operates under an urban livestock licensing program. You’ll need to take a "Chickens 101" course and get a Premise ID (PID) from the province.

• Victoria, BC: Very chicken-friendly with long-standing bylaws allowing for small backyard flocks.

• Halton Hills, ON: A great example of a smaller Ontario municipality that successfully transitioned from a pilot to a permanent program.

The "Maybe" Cities (Pilot Programs & Borough Rules)

• Montreal, QC: It depends on where you live! The city as a whole technically prohibits hens, but several boroughs like Rosemont–La Petite-Patrie and Mercier–Hochelaga-Maisonneuve have successful pilot projects.

• Winnipeg, MB: Recently moved forward with a pilot program. Check with your specific ward to see if you qualify.

The "Paused" or "No" Cities

• Toronto, ON: In a disappointing turn for 2026, Toronto’s UrbanHensTO program remains on an indefinite pause. While those already in the program were grandfathered in, no new permits are being issued due to ongoing avian flu concerns.

• Ottawa, ON: Generally, backyard chickens are only allowed in areas zoned as rural or agricultural. Urban and suburban residential zones are still waiting for a permanent change.

How do I find out if my city/town allows backyard chickens? Most municipalities have their bylaws available online. A quick Google search should get you to the right website for your local bylaws. If your municipality doesn’t have them posted online, anonymously call your town/city clerk for verification. I say anonymously just in case it is illegal and you decide to keep a flock anyways. No need to be on your town’s radar.

1. Search your town's website for "Animal Control Bylaw."

2. Look for "Prohibited Animals." If chickens are on the list, it's a no-go.

3. Check for "Urban Hen" permits. Many towns have specific applications separate from the general bylaws.

Important Note: Even if your city allows chickens, your Homeowners Association (HOA) or your landlord might not. Always check your specific property rules before you build your coop!

What happens when if I get busted? Your local bylaw officers aren’t wandering around, peering into backyards looking for an outlawed flock of chickens. Of all the people we’ve known to get caught, it was from a neighbour calling in a complaint. Depending on where you live, you may get a warning with a requirement to cease your chicken keeping, a ticket or absolutely nothing. Most towns have better things to do than bust up backyard farms.

I want chickens, but there is a bylaw prohibiting them in my town, what should I do to keep my neighbours from turning me in? Bribes. Bribes as in fresh eggs for your neighbours! Once they taste a freshly laid egg, your neighbours will be hooked and won't dare out you to the municipality and lose their supply of delicious eggs.

If you’ve ever owned a traditional wooden chicken coop, you know the "Saturday Morning Dread." It involves a metal scraper, a face mask to avoid breathing in dust, and hours of scrubbing porous wood that never truly feels clean. By the time you’re done, you’re covered in mess, and the wood is still damp.

With an Omlet Eglu coop, the game changes entirely. Because these coops are made from high-grade, smooth-surface plastic, the waste simply doesn't "bond" to the material the way it does to plywood or pine. Here is how you get your life back:

• The Slide-Out Secret: Instead of climbing inside a cramped wooden box, you simply slide out the dropping tray. Empty it straight into your compost bin, give it a quick spray, and slide it back in.

• Pressure-Washer Friendly: Try pressure-washing a wooden coop and you’ll end up with a soggy, rotting mess. You can blast an Eglu with a high-pressure hose or a bucket of soapy water, and it’s sparkling in seconds.

• Zero Drying Time: Wood stays damp for hours (or days in a Canadian autumn), which creates a breeding ground for mold. Plastic wipes dry instantly. Your hens can be back in their clean, dry home before you’ve even finished your morning coffee.

The Four Legs or Wings Pro-Tip: A clean coop isn't just about aesthetics; it's the #1 way to prevent mites and respiratory issues in your flock. 

Whether you’re looking to live more sustainably or just want some feathered friends to brighten your backyard, keeping chickens is one of the most rewarding journeys you can start. It’s more than just a hobby; it’s a lifestyle upgrade that pays you back in breakfast!

From the health of your garden to the health of your mind, here are 8 reasons why adding a flock to your family is a "clucking" great idea:

1) The Eggs
Cheerful chickens will lay a fresh egg for you almost every day. You know exactly where your eggs have come from and they will be the most delicious eggs you have ever tasted. A dozen eggs from your backyard make the perfect

2) Fertilizer

Chicken droppings make ideal fertilizer. Chicken poo is high in nitrogen so will need composting first, but it makes for an inexpensive organic fertilizer which will do wonders for your vegetable patch.

3) Less Food Waste

Chickens are very fond of food scraps. They will eat a lot of kitchen waste (although not all, read our section on what you can and can’t feed your chickens here).

4) Pest Control 

Chickens absolutely love to eat creepy crawlies. 

Slimy slugs, snails and worms are their favourite and they will love to potter about your garden eating up all the bugs that eat your plants. They are great at gobbling up ticks in long grass. We think that's pretty useful.

5) Educational

You will learn lots about animal husbandry from keeping chickens and about the animals themselves.  Observe firsthand how these wonderful birds forage, respond to weather changes, keep themselves clean, and how they establish their social order.

Children absolutely love having their own chickens. You can teach your children exactly where their food comes from. They can learn bout the responsibilities of keeping pets and healthy farm animals, and - for the business minded - even selling their eggs.

6) Entertainment

You may not know it yet, but chickens are very entertaining and funny animals. You and your family will be endlessly amused with your chickens' antics. Each chicken has her own personality and quirks. You will find yourself getting rather attached to your hens without even realizing.

7) Therapy

Much research in recent years has shown that interacting with pets and with nature is great for our mental health.  Keeping chickens combines both...and it's much cheaper than therapy!

8) It's Easy

Once you get into the routine and swing of keeping chickens you will realize just how easy it really is to maintain long term.

Starting your first flock is an exciting journey, and one of the first decisions you'll have to make is which chicken breeds to get. There are many gorgeous breeds to choose from, but in Canada, the "perfect" bird needs to be more than just a pretty face—it needs to be winter hardy, with a nice temperament and reliable egg production. We’ve rounded up the six best beginner-friendly breeds.

1. Red Sex-Links (The "Egg Machines")

If your #1 goal is a full egg basket, look no further. Red-Sex Links are hybrid stars that are famous for their sweet, "dog-like" personalities. Their name is derived from the fact that you can determine the sex of this breed as soon as they hatch because male and female chicks look different

Egg Production: ~300+ large brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Extremely docile; they often follow their owners around like pets.

Why they’re great for Canada: They are robust and continue laying even when the days get shorter and colder.

2. Black Sex-Links (a.k.a Black Stars)

Egg-cellent layers with striking black feathers and beautiful gold or copper "lacing" around the neck and breast.

Egg Production: Slightly lower than the Reds but still elite. Expect 250–300 large brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Calm and sturdy, but generally a bit more independent and "business-like" than the cuddly Red Sex-Links.

Why they’re great for Canada: Because they have Barred Rock genetics, they tend to be slightly larger and more "rugged" in the face of a harsh Canadian winter.

3. Barred Plymouth Rocks (The "Old Reliable")

These are the quintessential "black and white striped" farm chickens. They are incredibly hardy and handle Canadian winters with ease.

Egg Production: ~250 large brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Calm, steady, and great for families with children.

Why they’re great for Canada: They have a thick feather coat and a sturdy build that resists the chill.

4. Buff Orpingtons (The "Lap Chickens")

Often called the "Golden Retrievers of the chicken world," Orpingtons are big, fluffy, and love a good cuddle.

Egg Production: ~200–220 medium-to-large brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Famous for being the friendliest breed available.

Why they’re great for Canada: Their extra-fluffy feathers act like a built-in winter parka.

5. Chantecler (The "Canadian Original")

Developed in Quebec specifically for our climate, this breed is a true northern survivor.

Egg Production: ~200 brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Productive and calm, though a bit more independent than the Orpington.

Why they’re great for Canada: They have a "cushion comb" and almost no wattles, making them virtually immune to frostbite.

6. Black Australorps (The "Quiet Achievers")

An Australian breed that surprisingly thrives in the North. Their black feathers have a beautiful beetle-green shimmer in the sun.

Egg Production: ~250+ brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Quiet and gentle; they rarely cause drama in the pecking order.

Why they’re great for Canada: Excellent cold tolerance and highly consistent layers.

Understanding the biological rhythm of a hen is key to managing your expectations and keeping your flock healthy. Here is the breakdown of the laying cycle, from the first "pullet egg" to the golden years.

How Often Do They Lay?

Most modern laying breeds (like Red Sex Links or Azure Blues) aim to lay one egg every 24 to 26 hours.

A chicken’s body begins developing the next yolk almost immediately after an egg is laid. Because it takes slightly longer than a day to "package" an egg, your hens will likely lay a little later each afternoon until they eventually "miss" a day to reset their internal clock.

• High-Production Hybrids: 5–6 eggs per week.
  
  

• Heritage Breeds: 3–4 eggs per week.
  
  

Do They Lay All Year Round?

In Canada, the short days of winter are the biggest hurdle for egg production.

The Role of Light

A hen’s reproductive system is triggered by daylight. To maintain peak production, a chicken needs about 14 to 16 hours of light per day. As the sun sets earlier in the autumn, most hens will naturally slow down or stop laying entirely to conserve energy.

The Annual Molt

Once a year (usually in the fall), chickens go through a molt. they lose their old, ragged feathers and grow shiny new ones to stay warm for winter. Because feathers are made of nearly 90% protein, the hen’s body diverts all its protein resources to feather growth, meaning egg production completely stops for 4 to 8 weeks.

Pro-Tip: During the molt, boost their protein with mealworms! Our Peck Toys are a great way to serve these treats, keeping them active and distracted while they feel a bit "under the weather" during their feather loss.

How Many Years Do They Lay?

A chicken can live for 8 to 10 years, but her "peak" laying years are much shorter.

Year 1 (The Peak): This is the most productive year. Eggs might start small ("peewee" or pullet eggs) but quickly reach full size.

Year 2: Production typically drops by about 10–20%. However, the eggs are often slightly larger than in Year 1.

Year 3 & Beyond: Production continues to decline significantly each year. By age 4 or 5, a hen may only lay once or twice a week, or only during the peak of summer.

The "Retirement" Phase

Many backyard chicken owners keep their older hens as "coop grandmas." Even if they aren't filling the carton, they are excellent at pest control and teaching younger pullets the ropes.

Maximizing Your Harvest

To keep your girls laying as consistently as possible, you need to minimize stress. A bored chicken is a stressed chicken!

In the winter months when they can't forage in the garden, chickens often get restless. Our Peck Toys are designed to provide mental stimulation and physical exercise. By keeping them engaged and moving, you reduce the stress that can lead to a drop in egg production.

There is nothing quite like the excitement of finding that very first "treasure" in the nesting box. For a first-time chicken keeper, it feels like a graduation ceremony for your girls. But before that first egg arrives, your pullets (young female chickens) will give you several "tells" that the big day is approaching.

Spot the signs and prepare your coop for the "Point of Lay."

When Will It Happen?

Most chickens begin laying between 18 and 24 weeks of age. However, this varies by breed:

• High-Production Hybrids (Sex Links): Often start early, around 16–18 weeks.

• Heritage Breeds (Orpingtons, Barred Rocks): May take 24–28 weeks.

• The Winter Factor: If your pullets hit "laying age" in December, the lack of daylight might delay their first egg until the days begin to lengthen in late winter.

Signs Your Hen is Ready to Lay

Your girls will undergo a physical and behavioral transformation about two weeks before the first egg:

1. The Comb & Wattles Turn Bright Red: As hormones surge, their head gear will change from pale pink to a deep, vibrant red. It may also look "swollen" or waxy.

2. The "Squat" Test: This is the most reliable sign. When you go to pet your hen, she will stop, drop her chest toward the ground, and spread her wings slightly. This is a submissive reflex in preparation for a rooster (or you!).

3. Nesting Behavior: You’ll see her "window shopping" for nesting boxes. she might kick around the straw or pine shavings, testing the comfort of different spots.

4. The Egg Song: Some hens get very vocal. You’ll hear a distinct buck-buck-buck-bada-gawk!—this is her announcing to the world that something big is happening.

What the First Egg Looks Like

Don't expect a "Jumbo Grade A" egg on day one.

• The "Pullet Egg": The first few eggs are often tiny (sometimes called "fairy eggs" or "fart eggs"). They are perfectly edible and often have a very high yolk-to-white ratio!

• Oddities: It’s common to see shells with extra calcium bumps, double yolks, or even the occasional "rubber egg" (an egg with a membrane but no shell) as the hen’s internal machinery calibrates.

Setting Them Up for Success

The transition to laying is physically taxing. Here is how to support them:

• Switch to Layer Feed: Move from "Grower" crumbles to "Layer" pellets/mash. Layer feed contains the extra calcium (usually 3–4%) required to build strong shells.

• Offer Supplemental Calcium: Keep a separate dish of oyster shell or crushed eggshells. Hens are smart; they will only eat it when they feel their body needs it.

• Encourage the Right Spot: Place a ceramic egg or even a golf ball in the nesting box. This teaches the pullets that "This is where the eggs go," preventing them from laying in the dirt or under a bush.

Prevent "Egg Eating" Before It Starts

Sometimes, a curious young hen will accidentally break her first egg and realize it tastes delicious. This can lead to a "habitual egg eater"—a nightmare for any keeper.

The best defense is enrichment. If your hens are bored, they are more likely to peck at things they shouldn't (like eggs).

Our Four Legs or Wings Peck Toys are the perfect distraction for pullets entering their laying phase. By giving them a productive way to use their pecking instinct, you keep their focus on the toys and treats, and away from their new, precious eggs.

We get the most questions about how to keep chicken in the winter months here in Canada. Many people find it hard to believe, but chickens are not only great in winter weather but they thrive in winter! Read on to find out what it's like keeping chickens in the winter.