Why are my Chickens NOT Laying?

It’s a classic frustration for every poultry keeper: you head out to the nesting box expecting a bounty, only to find it empty. While it’s tempting to think your hens are just being stubborn, a drop in egg production is usually their way of communicating that something is off.

Drop in Egg Production

When you buy chickens they will often be at the point of lay ("Ready-To-Lays"). This means that the chickens will start to lay soon. How long this takes depends on the time of year and the individual chicken. It can be anywhere between 4 and 6 weeks before they start to lay (longer in winter when there is less daylight).

Once they are mature enough to lay, chickens' egg production should be regular and typical for the breed. If they do slow down or stop egg production, the reasons could be:

Sickness or Injury: A change in the chicken's health condition. Check that the chicken seems healthy. Look for an impacted crop, mites or other parasites, signs of hen-pecking, general lethargy etc.

Annual Moult: When your chickens start their annual moult of feathers their egg production will drop and most likely stop. This is because the chickens are reserving their energy to produce new feathers

Dehydration: Egg production is the first thing affected by dehydration. Make sure your birds have plentiful clean water.

Reduced Daylight in Winter: Chickens need 14 to 16 hours of light per day in order to lay. This means that in the winter, shorter days will typically result in few eggs.

Nutrient Deficiency: Mature birds should be feed for laying chickens because it has the right proportion of nutrients required for egg production. "Grower" feed is for chicks and poults, and should be switched to "Layer" feed when a chicken starts laying. Chickens cannot lay properly if only fed kitchen scraps. Treats should only account for 10% of their diet.

Broodiness: When a hen gets broody, she determines that it is time to stop laying and start sitting on a clutch of eggs until they hatch. This can happen regardless of whether there is a rooster in the flock or the eggs are fertilized. To break the broodiness, you must get the hen off the eggs and keep her out of the nest boxes.

Fright or Stress: If your birds have had a fright, such as predators entering the coops, this can result in no eggs for a while.

Old Age: Chickens lay the most eggs during their first and second year. At three years, egg production steadily begins to decline.

Hide & Seek: If you are letting your chickens roam about in the garden they may have made a nest under a bush or in a corner somewhere. Follow your chicken discreetly to find the nest. This could also be a sign that the nest boxes are not inviting anymore: remove dirty bedding and add some fluffy new straw or shavings.

A chicken that stays in the nest box all day has gone broody

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Getting That First Egg

There is nothing quite like the excitement of finding that very first "treasure" in the nesting box. For a first-time chicken keeper, it feels like a graduation ceremony for your girls. But before that first egg arrives, your pullets (young female chickens) will give you several "tells" that the big day is approaching.

Spot the signs and prepare your coop for the "Point of Lay."

When Will It Happen?

Most chickens begin laying between 18 and 24 weeks of age. However, this varies by breed:

High-Production Hybrids (Sex Links): Often start early, around 16–18 weeks.
Heritage Breeds (Orpingtons, Barred Rocks): May take 24–28 weeks.
The Winter Factor: If your pullets hit "laying age" in December, the lack of daylight might delay their first egg until the days begin to lengthen in late winter.

Signs Your Hen is Ready to Lay

Your girls will undergo a physical and behavioral transformation about two weeks before the first egg:

The Comb & Wattles Turn Bright Red: As hormones surge, their head gear will change from pale pink to a deep, vibrant red. It may also look "swollen" or waxy.
The "Squat" Test: This is the most reliable sign. When you go to pet your hen, she will stop, drop her chest toward the ground, and spread her wings slightly. This is a submissive reflex in preparation for a rooster (or you!).
Nesting Behavior: You’ll see her "window shopping" for nesting boxes. she might kick around the straw or pine shavings, testing the comfort of different spots.
The Egg Song: Some hens get very vocal. You’ll hear a distinct buck-buck-buck-bada-gawk!—this is her announcing to the world that something big is happening.

What the First Egg Looks Like

Don't expect a "Jumbo Grade A" egg on day one.

The "Pullet Egg": The first few eggs are often tiny (sometimes called "fairy eggs" or "fart eggs"). They are perfectly edible and often have a very high yolk-to-white ratio!
Oddities: It’s common to see shells with extra calcium bumps, double yolks, or even the occasional "rubber egg" (an egg with a membrane but no shell) as the hen’s internal machinery calibrates.

Setting Them Up for Success

The transition to laying is physically taxing. Here is how to support them:

Switch to Layer Feed: Move from "Grower" crumbles to "Layer" pellets/mash. Layer feed contains the extra calcium (usually 3–4%) required to build strong shells.
Offer Supplemental Calcium: Keep a separate dish of oyster shell or crushed eggshells. Hens are smart; they will only eat it when they feel their body needs it.
Encourage the Right Spot: Place a ceramic egg or even a golf ball in the nesting box. This teaches the pullets that "This is where the eggs go," preventing them from laying in the dirt or under a bush.

Prevent "Egg Eating" Before It Starts

Sometimes, a curious young hen will accidentally break her first egg and realize it tastes delicious. This can lead to a "habitual egg eater"—a nightmare for any keeper.

The best defense is enrichment. If your hens are bored, they are more likely to peck at things they shouldn't (like eggs).

Our Four Legs or Wings Peck Toys are the perfect distraction for pullets entering their laying phase. By giving them a productive way to use their pecking instinct, you keep their focus on the toys and treats, and away from their new, precious eggs.

How Many Eggs Does a Chicken Lay?

Understanding the biological rhythm of a hen is key to managing your expectations and keeping your flock healthy. Here is the breakdown of the laying cycle, from the first "pullet egg" to the golden years.

How Often Do They Lay?

Most modern laying breeds (like Red Sex Links or Azure Blues) aim to lay one egg every 24 to 26 hours.

A chicken’s body begins developing the next yolk almost immediately after an egg is laid. Because it takes slightly longer than a day to "package" an egg, your hens will likely lay a little later each afternoon until they eventually "miss" a day to reset their internal clock.

High-Production Hybrids: 5–6 eggs per week.
Heritage Breeds: 3–4 eggs per week.

Do They Lay All Year Round?

In Canada, the short days of winter are the biggest hurdle for egg production.

The Role of Light

A hen’s reproductive system is triggered by daylight. To maintain peak production, a chicken needs about 14 to 16 hours of light per day. As the sun sets earlier in the autumn, most hens will naturally slow down or stop laying entirely to conserve energy.

The Annual Molt

Once a year (usually in the fall), chickens go through a molt. they lose their old, ragged feathers and grow shiny new ones to stay warm for winter. Because feathers are made of nearly 90% protein, the hen’s body diverts all its protein resources to feather growth, meaning egg production completely stops for 4 to 8 weeks.

Pro-Tip: During the molt, boost their protein with mealworms! Our Peck Toys are a great way to serve these treats, keeping them active and distracted while they feel a bit "under the weather" during their feather loss.

How Many Years Do They Lay?

A chicken can live for 8 to 10 years, but her "peak" laying years are much shorter.

Year 1 (The Peak): This is the most productive year. Eggs might start small ("peewee" or pullet eggs) but quickly reach full size.

Year 2: Production typically drops by about 10–20%. However, the eggs are often slightly larger than in Year 1.

Year 3 & Beyond: Production continues to decline significantly each year. By age 4 or 5, a hen may only lay once or twice a week, or only during the peak of summer.

The "Retirement" Phase

Many backyard chicken owners keep their older hens as "coop grandmas." Even if they aren't filling the carton, they are excellent at pest control and teaching younger pullets the ropes.

Maximizing Your Harvest

To keep your girls laying as consistently as possible, you need to minimize stress. A bored chicken is a stressed chicken!

In the winter months when they can't forage in the garden, chickens often get restless. Our Peck Toys are designed to provide mental stimulation and physical exercise. By keeping them engaged and moving, you reduce the stress that can lead to a drop in egg production.

Best Chicken Breeds for Beginners

Starting your first flock is an exciting journey, and one of the first decisions you'll have to make is which chicken breeds to get. There are many gorgeous breeds to choose from, but in Canada, the "perfect" bird needs to be more than just a pretty face—it needs to be winter hardy, with a nice temperament and reliable egg production. We’ve rounded up the six best beginner-friendly breeds.

1. Red Sex-Links (The "Egg Machines")

If your #1 goal is a full egg basket, look no further. Red-Sex Links are hybrid stars that are famous for their sweet, "dog-like" personalities. Their name is derived from the fact that you can determine the sex of this breed as soon as they hatch because male and female chicks look different

Egg Production: ~300+ large brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Extremely docile; they often follow their owners around like pets.

Why they’re great for Canada: They are robust and continue laying even when the days get shorter and colder.

2. Black Sex-Links (a.k.a Black Stars)

Egg-cellent layers with striking black feathers and beautiful gold or copper "lacing" around the neck and breast.

Egg Production: Slightly lower than the Reds but still elite. Expect 250–300 large brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Calm and sturdy, but generally a bit more independent and "business-like" than the cuddly Red Sex-Links.

Why they’re great for Canada: Because they have Barred Rock genetics, they tend to be slightly larger and more "rugged" in the face of a harsh Canadian winter.

3. Barred Plymouth Rocks (The "Old Reliable")

These are the quintessential "black and white striped" farm chickens. They are incredibly hardy and handle Canadian winters with ease.

Egg Production: ~250 large brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Calm, steady, and great for families with children.

Why they’re great for Canada: They have a thick feather coat and a sturdy build that resists the chill.

4. Buff Orpingtons (The "Lap Chickens")

Often called the "Golden Retrievers of the chicken world," Orpingtons are big, fluffy, and love a good cuddle.

Egg Production: ~200–220 medium-to-large brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Famous for being the friendliest breed available.

Why they’re great for Canada: Their extra-fluffy feathers act like a built-in winter parka.

5. Chantecler (The "Canadian Original")

Developed in Quebec specifically for our climate, this breed is a true northern survivor.

Egg Production: ~200 brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Productive and calm, though a bit more independent than the Orpington.

Why they’re great for Canada: They have a "cushion comb" and almost no wattles, making them virtually immune to frostbite.

6. Black Australorps (The "Quiet Achievers")

An Australian breed that surprisingly thrives in the North. Their black feathers have a beautiful beetle-green shimmer in the sun.

Egg Production: ~250+ brown eggs per year.

Temperament: Quiet and gentle; they rarely cause drama in the pecking order.

Why they’re great for Canada: Excellent cold tolerance and highly consistent layers.